I began my internship last Wednesday at Common Thread Farm,
and was surprised to find a personal connection during my day of harvesting
ugly carrots and bagging sweet onions. Asher, an owner of the CSA, asked us all
about where we grew up, what our families did and what it was like to live
there. I’m from even further Upstate New York – Oswego County, near Lake
Ontario – and have honestly always found it unremarkable. I have a very shallow
supply of “fun facts” about my hometown. In theory, the first curveball was
thrown right down the street from my house. The Oswego River, which flows
through my hometown of Fulton, NY and empties into Lake Ontario, is one of the
few north-flowing rivers in the world. Benjamin Franklin listed Oswego, our
county seat, as one of the four would-be great cities of America, along with
New York City, Boston, and Philadelphia. We were the only area he was wrong
about.
Oh, and we have a guy from our town that was in the NHL for
a while, but that’s about all that’s ever really been notable.
Asher immediately started asking if I knew any farmers in
the area as I was shucking onions and putting them in 50 lb. bags. My cousin,
who grew up two houses down from me all my life, just married a son of the most
prominent farmers in Oswego County. The Sorbellos, as I learned from their
website (click here), came from Sicily in the late 1920’s and started working
as a tenant farmer on plots in the Oswego-Fulton area. Today, the family has
something of an “onion empire.” They even wear sweatshirts with the “Sorbello”
name on them, the “O’s” drawn as onions.
When the first Sorbello came to Oswego County and bought his
first muck farm on Route 48 in Granby, he didn’t know how lucky he was. Muck,
or “black dirt” as it’s called in Orange County, is made up of between 20 and
80 % organic matter, which accounts for its dark color and its ability to yield
a large quantity of diverse and healthy crops. It takes over 500 years to
create muck 1 foot deep. Clearly the richness found in this type of soil is
rare. According to this article, my cousin’s new family is
farming onions and soybeans on 600 acres of muck soil in the Granby area.
But they aren’t the only ones who supported local
agriculture or the small economy of Oswego County – it goes deeper and more
personal than that.
According to an Oswego County agricultural planner, it was
the Italian immigrants in the 30’s, 40’s and 50’s that got the muck industry
going. Suddenly I recalled long forgotten stories from my dad, a 2nd
generation Italian, talking about his summer employment on muck farms during
the 1960’s. He started his day at 5
a.m., worked until the height of the afternoon in the searing heat, and bit
into a head of freshly harvested iceberg lettuce as his only source of hydration
for the day, just as his dad did.
Unfortunately the muck in Oswego County, and everywhere
farming occurs, is disappearing. Soil erosion, land overuse, and flooding all
contribute to the decrease in this remarkable resource.
Once again, I am reminded of the plight of my hometown – a
small city plagued with poverty and unemployment, alcoholism and obesity, and a
pervasive apathetic attitude. As soon as I learn about a remarkable natural
resource found not far from where I played as a child, something unique that
affects my family, something from home that I can be proud of, I am faced with
the harsh realities of the dangers of exploitation. Maybe exploitation is too
strong of a word, but what I’m really discussing is a lack of sustainable
practices, and in many ways, the inability to take care of our own.
Fulton has had a hard go of it in recent years. Factories
have shut down, our school systems have experienced dramatic changes in
leadership, and language and art programs have been cut. The fertilizer from
local farmers leaked into our small lake and blue-green algae has killed dogs
and fish and geese populations. Maybe these issues are unrelated, but to me
they all speak to a greater cultural habit – the attitude that we do what we
can get away with, that we don’t have to worry about the next guy, or what
happens tomorrow, or somebody else’s problem. Has competition left us unable to
think about the long run, dependent on practices inherently bad for our
communities and our environment?
I’m not trying to prescribe some Marxian solution to the
complicated cultural, environmental, and economic problems of our time, but I
do find some solace back at the Common Thread Farm. On Wednesday I worked, on
Saturday I reaped the benefits from my farm share. They taught me what to do, I
put faith in them by paying for a semester of goods, they put faith in me by
letting me help harvest and sort, and together I think we helped take better
care of each other and the community.
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