Studying
abroad in Copenhagen last fall I had the incredible experience to dine at Noma. Named the Best Restaurant in the World in
2010, 2011, 2012, and 2014, it is without a doubt Denmark’s most well known place
to eat. Reservations are made months in advance,
but I fortunately had a foodie friend who was determined to not leave
Copenhagen without eating there. So the
minute they started accepting reservations she was online scheduling ours. While it was slightly crazy, I am so happy
she did it.
I was
honored that she asked me if I wanted to join in on her reservation, however
with one look at the menu my hesitation set in.
“New Nordic Cuisine, what does that even mean,” and “are they really
going to try to feed me live ants?” were just some of the questions I had for
her. My friend, being the adventurous
foodie that she is, scoffed and assured me that it would be the most amazing
dinner of my life. And let me tell you,
it was, live ants and all.
The two
culinary geniuses behind Noma, Claus Meyer and René Redzepi, are credited with
generating the momentum of the New Nordic Cuisine movement. While Scandinavia’s food traditions rely
heavily on smoking and curing (something I never grew to enjoy when living
there) they wanted to make use of the more overlooked game, produce and
ingredients from the North Atlantic area.
The aim to make use of all the region’s natural produce can be seen in
the menu. With additions such as wild
plants, goose foot and moss cooked in chocolate, it makes use of foods you
might not have even known you could eat.
The concept
behind Meyer and Redzepi’s vision for New Nordic Cuisine is clean, light, and
subtle flavors. There is also a
particular emphasis on seasonal and regional ingredients. For example, at Noma, they make a point of
telling you that the seaweed you are enjoying was foraged from a beach in
Denmark by the chef the day before.
After
learning more about the food movement I discovered that Denmark’s agricultural
history has played a major role in the push for New Nordic Cuisine. Denmark’s history of subsidized agriculture
as well as the focused on the exportation of pork and butter resulted in a
homogenous food landscape that overshadowed Denmark’s past of diverse local
foods and recipes. New Nordic Cuisine is
therefore a movement to reverse this process and reintroduce Scandinavia’s rich
regional offerings back into the food culture.
The results of this movement can be seen all over in the menus of
Copenhagen’s restaurants. I find the New
Nordic Cuisine movement fascinating because of its aims to return back to the
local and naturally occurring ingredients found in Scandinavia. Those chefs that master this cuisine have
found a way to make food you might ordinarily never dream of eating, like moss,
and making it a delicacy. If anyone ever
has the chance to try New Nordic Cuisine I highly recommend reserving judgment
on the name of the food, and giving it a try, chances are you will be really
pleasantly surprised.
Dessert
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